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A dieline is the flat map of a display before it is cut and folded: it shows where the board will be cut, where it will fold and where it will be glued. Your artwork sits on top of it. You place artwork to suit the dieline, but you never move, resize or redraw the dieline itself.
If you're designing artwork for a cardboard display such as a dump bin, the dieline normally comes with the artwork template from whoever makes the unit. Reading it properly is the difference between a unit that looks right on the shop floor and one with a logo folded round a corner or a header printed upside down. Here's what the lines mean and how to work with them.
If you need to draw a dieline from scratch, that's a different job: see our guide on how to create a dieline in Illustrator, InDesign or Photoshop.
Dielines aren't drawn the same way everywhere, so start with the legend or the layer names in the file. We prefer the dieline on its own named layers, in spot colours set to overprint so it never prints, with the full cut line in one colour and the fold line in another.
The outer edge of the finished piece, plus any holes, slots or windows cut through it. Anything outside the cut line is trimmed away. A cut-out such as a hand hole or a header slot will have no board behind it, so don't put copy there.
Also called a crease or score line. The board is pressed rather than cut here, so it bends cleanly. Every fold line is an edge of the finished unit, which makes it the most useful line for working out which panel is which.
A tab that tucks behind another panel and is glued in place, so nobody sees it once the unit is made up. It needs no artwork. If the template marks it as an area to keep clear, leave it unprinted.
A broken cut line for a part that is meant to tear away. Treat it like a cut line: keep text and logos clear of it.
The outer limit for artwork. Backgrounds run out to here so there's no white edge after cutting. Unless the template says otherwise, allow 10 mm. The template always wins.
The inner boundary for anything that must be read: logos, product names, prices, legal copy. Keep these well inside the cut line and away from fold lines, because a fold can swallow the edge of a word.

A flat dieline can be hard to picture. These steps help.
The front is the panel the shopper sees, so it carries the main brand message. On a dump bin it's usually one of the large rectangles in the middle of the layout. Once you know the front, the sides, back and base fall into place around it.
Panels that fold over or back, such as a header that sits up from the back of a bin, often appear upside down or sideways on the flat. Work out which edge ends up at the top of each panel before you place type on it. An upside-down header is one of the easiest mistakes to make and one of the most expensive to fix.
Bases, glue flaps, inner walls and the back of a header may never be seen in store. Spend the design effort on the faces a shopper will actually look at.
A bin placed against a wall shows two or three faces, while an island bin is seen from every side. Our branded retail dump bins can carry your print on one face or several, so decide which faces need it before you design. Remember to ask whether the unit arrives flat-packed or pre-assembled, too.
Print the dieline with your artwork at a reduced scale, cut it out and fold it up. A quick fold-up will show an upside-down panel or a logo across a fold faster than any screen.

Standard production for our dump bins is 1.5 weeks, counted from your order and print-ready artwork. Every one of these mistakes means a fix, a new proof and a later delivery. Designers who know our templates and finished products check your files in our artwork preflighting service, at $45 ex-GST per job, with digital proofs sent back to you for approval. Wide-format printing and hand finishing are handled by our in-house printing and production team.
If you're not sure how a template folds up, send it to artwork@displays2go.com.au or give us a call and we'll talk you through it.